Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel was born in Saumur, Maine-et-Loire, France. She grew up poor, and at 11, after her mother died, she and two of her sisters were sent to an orphanage. There, she learned to sew, a skill that would serve her later in life.
At 18, she started working as a seamstress while trying to launch a career as a singer, performing in cabaret shows. During this time, she received the nickname, Coco.
At 23, she began a relationship with Etienne Balsan, who introduced her to the “rich life” and high society circles. She began working as a milliner and hat designer at the time. Two years later, she left Balsan for one of his friends, Arthur “Boy” Capel, who encouraged her to cultivate her talent and passion, and financed her first millinery shop at 21 rue Cambon, Paris, which opened in 1910. Two years later, she opened a boutique in Deauville, where, in addition to hats, she sold simple sportswear made of jersey, a fabric that until then was used to make men’s underwear. Her revolutionary clothing drew the attention of several well-known actresses, who helped build her reputation.
In 1915, at 32, Chanel opened her first Couture House in Biarritz and launched her first Haute Couture collection. The following year, she paid Capel back his original investment, made only three years before.
In 1918, she purchased a building in 31 rue Cambon, Paris, and set up her Couture House as well as a boutique, workshop, and several salons. By then, Chanel was a popular figure in the Parisian art world and designed costumes for the Ballets Russes.
Under the agenda that “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury,” Chanel’s designs were always simple, comfortable, and yet luxurious, and by that, she revolutionized the fashion industry.
In 1921, Chanel collaborated with the perfumer Ernst Beaux and launched her signature scent, Chanel No. 5 – the first designer perfume. She manufactured and distributed the fragrance with the help of Pierre Wertheimer of the Bourjois cosmetics company and Théophile Bader of the Galeries Lafayette department store in a controversial deal that left her with only 10% of the profits.
She continued to expand the Chanel brand, adding a makeup collection in 1924 and introducing the Chanel collarless skirt suit and the iconic little black dress in the next couple of years. Her designs changed the face of fashion by removing the traditional corsets and confining garments and borrowing men’s wear elements.
In the early 1930s, she was invited to Hollywood to design costumes for various films and soon became the private designer of A-list actresses such as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo.
During WW2, Chanel lived in the Hotel Ritz in Paris and became associated with a Nazi military officer. This connection tainted her reputation, and she closed her business for the next 15 years.
In 1954, at 71, she reopened her Couture House and introduced several new styles, such as the bell-bottomed pants and the braided cardigan jacket, maintaining her agenda of a clean, classic luxurious look. Although she received harsh reviews, the shoppers thought otherwise, and her clothing returned to be a must-have in every fashionista’s closet.
In the next two decades, Chanel continued to design new and innovative clothes, fragrances, and accessories, including bags, watches, and jewelry. She kept on running her brand until she died at the age of 88.
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